...it was cool,it rained the night before so the waves were huge some were 7 or 8 feet tall! Suddenly a huge wave appeared almost 10 or 11 feet tall! It swept me up and spun me around like I was in a hurricane. when I washed to shore I felt numb in three parts of my body.
that day has changed surfing for me forever...
that day has changed surfing for me forever...